Learning to fly

Question: Who do you call an adrenaline-seeking public health student who is totally and completely insane?
Answer: Allyson Westling

This morning was spent skydiving from a tiny airplane, 9,000 m above the wondrous South African countryside. I was the first one of my group of friends to go, and the entire experience was totally surreal! From the 35 seconds of free fall (including some somersaulting and cartwheels in mid air) to the 4 minutes of parachuting to the ground, I had an incredible time. I even took a moment to enjoy the view, believe it or not! Now that my pulse is finally back to normal, the new question becomes: would I do it again? Answer: in a heartbeat!

In addition to my high-flying adventure, the rest of this week has been awesome! I've begun to learn some Afrikaans in my language and culture course, which has been fun to practice with the locals when out and around Stellenbosch. My other courses are going well and are keeping me busy with lots of reading and paper writing.

We also visited a water sanitation facility as part of our public health theory course to learn how the city of Cape Town ensures the health of its citizens through clean water initiatives. The biochemist in me was really interested in learning about the intensive cleaning process that is used to make sure that the water is safe for human consumption.

Instead of working at the community clinic this week, I spent the day shadowing an environmental health inspector as he made his rounds in the rural areas of Stellenbosch. We visited a sewage plant, landfill, day care center, wine cellar, production factory, sanitation service in a farming community, and a rural township. At each stop, I learned about the health risks that the inspector must look for when visiting these sites, and how he communicates any visible health dangers to the people involved. Health inspections are a vital aspect of public health; focusing on disease prevention within community structures can strengthen existing health care initiatives and prevent disease outbreaks before they occur. The day was highly informative and I had a good time.

On Wednesday night, I had a chance to meet many more students at a "dress like a twin" themed braai (South African version of a barbecue). It is always fun to learn about the cultural norms and traditions of students from all over the world. My conversations were a good reminder of the "ties that bind us," despite variances among geographic location and cultural identity.

Tomorrow is a full day of hiking, followed by getting ready for a two-week trip to Kruger National Park (largest wildlife reserve in the world), Mozambique, and the rural village of Knysna for some hands-on public health work. I'll be completely off the radar (no electricity, running water, or cell phone service) for most of my time away, but will be sure to update when I return!

Master of the Monkeys and Medical Records

Since I last wrote, I have mastered two things: monkeys and medical records. In anticipation of a plethora of questions, let me explain myself:

Last Friday, I had my first day at my internship. I was working at a community health clinic in Kayamandi, one of the townships of Stellenbosch. I started my day in the patient records room where I was given the task of putting laboratory test results into patient folders. This would have been a very easy job, had there not been five large shelves spanning the entire length of the room with files on them, or if the patient records were not torn, falling apart, misplaced, or just plain missing. My task quickly became difficult, since I was unable to locate any of the patient folders that I needed. Swallowing my pride, I sheepishly asked the receptionist, for help. She immediately pointed me to a pile of patients that had been seen yesterday and told me that the missing folders would 'naturally' be there. I am glad I asked, or I would probably still be in that room scouring for a needle in the haystack. My 'mastery' of this archaic filing system definitely made me appreciate how efficient electronic medical records are back in the states.

Once I had finished this job, I learned how to complete patient intake forms. This consisted of calling the patient up to the front desk for his or her appointment, then making sure his or her medical records were up to date, and entering the data in a computer system (which, by the way, was on a computer from the 1970's and programmed entirely in Afrikaans). Luckily for me, the patients and staff were understanding, and didn't mind waiting a few extra minutes as I learned this new system (and language!).

After a tea and lunch break with the nurses at the clinic, I spent the rest of the afternoon in the pharmacy, counting pills and appropriating them into the correct containers. Since this wasn't rocket science, I had a chance to observe the operations of the pharmacy, and ask some questions about their work. It was amazing that I, without any formal pharmaceutical training, could be allowed to count pills. You'd need to be at least a pharmacy technician to do that in the states, a testament to the fact that these clinics definitely need an extra set of hands on deck. The entire day was a good learning experience, and I am excited for more hands-on work in the coming weeks.

On Saturday, I donned my tourism cap and spent the day around Cape Town with a group of girlfriends. We made stops at the beautiful botanical gardens at the base of Table Mountain and Camps Bay beach (see above photos). But by far the best part of the day was our visit to the "World of Monkeys and Birds." The place was basically an open area, where birds of all different species could fly around, and monkeys could wander (of course, the dangerous ones were safely in cages). While the birds were beautiful, it was the monkeys that we had the most fun with. Before you could blink, they'd be crawling up your legs and onto your backpack, trying to open the zippers in search of food. One even tried to untwist the cap of my water bottle! Once we all got used to the monkeys climbing on us, we had a blast taking pictures and trying to get back the things the monkeys had stolen (i.e. food, lunch bags, etc.)

So there you have it: from medical records to monkeys, I have had a pretty busy past couple of days! Looking forward to a great week, with more adventures to come!

On becoming Rachael Ray

Step aside, Rachael Ray- you have just met your match in the kitchen. Even if I don't end up becoming the next Food Network queen, I know plenty of women at Etafeni who will.

I have just returned from a day in Nyanga, a black township on the outskirts of Cape Town. We spent our time touring the community and working at Etafeni, a non-governmental organization (NGO) in the township. This NGO provides employment, support, and childcare to women who are HIV positive. Nyanga has a staggering 75% unemployment rate and 26% of their population is infected with HIV/AIDS. Crime is an hourly occurrence. Most women seen by Etafeni have been raped, abused, abandoned, and much worse.

While these statistics are bleak, the women behind the numbers could not be more vibrant. I was fortunate to be able to get to know many of them as we cooked side by side all morning, preparing lunch for the children in the nursery/preschool. As we chopped vegetables together, I heard incredible stories of strength and determination. These women are not letting HIV rule their lives, and are adamant that none of their peers should either. In a country that has both the highest rates and the severest stigmatization of the disease, their courage is inspirational.

In addition to cooking, many of the women excel at beadwork and sewing. There are a number of rooms set up at Etafeni that provide them with space and comfort for their craft. Since they are working alongside other HIV positive women, the workspace becomes a place for friendship and emotional healing. They can also relax, knowing that their children are safe in the nearby daycare center (those very children, by the way, were so much fun to play with! I was able to hold, feed, and help put some of the infants down for their afternoon naps).

Later in the day as we walked around the township, I had a great conversation with Nkala, an HIV positive mother of two who works at Etafeni. Nkala explained that when she started working at Etafeni four months ago, she was so physically weak and emotionally broken, she felt that she would not live to see another day. Yet, in just four short months, Nkala has managed to turn her life completely around. She is healthy, happy, and hopeful. Her newly acquired craft as a bead worker has fueled her dream to one day open her own jewelry shop. After talking to this incredible young woman, I am confident that Nkala will not only open her own store, but encourage a league of other HIV positive women to take control of their futures as well.

My day at Etafeni was a powerful opportunity to observe how effective public health campaigns are being waged at the grassroots level. The dedicated staff and women of Etafeni totally understand that you can't just fight a virus. Rather, you must empower those suffering from HIV/AIDS to overcome their disease in a holistic way. When women (and men) are able to see themselves as unique human beings with something to offer to the world, the Food Network won't be the only place that should prepare itself for an influx of amazing individuals!

It's the 'end' of the world as we know it, and I feel fine!

I have officially been to the end of the world. Well…at least the southernmost point on the African continent. We spent yesterday hiking to the Cape of Good Hope, visiting Seal Island via a glass bottom boat, and seeing lots of African penguins on a nearby beach. There were even wild baboons crossing the road- definitely not a typical occurrence back in the states!

Today, a group of us hiked up Stellenbosch Mountain to take in the splendor of the surrounding countryside. The hiking was pretty strenuous, and it even included points of intense rock climbing (we were literally vertical!). I became the unofficial group leader, and had to work hard at navigating the ascent and descent (which was made especially challenging in lieu of any actual hiking trails). Needless to say, I am pretty exhausted, but so, so happy!

Classes have been amazing! My SA political history class will definitely keep me on my toes, but I'm ready for the challenge! I am most excited for my public health theory course. We spent the better part of Friday learning about the history of South Africa's health care system and an overview of their current health challenges, which we will be fleshing out over the upcoming weeks. By far the best part of the week was our excursion to visit two rural hospitals, where we got to meet the staff and see how things are run.

We also went to a rural township to help community health care workers deliver medications to their patients, who are unable to commute to the health center to pick them up themselves. At one of the homes I visited, I was able to have an amazing conversation with the woman who lived there. After being invited into her house, which is a ten-by-ten foot space that she shares with five other family members (we're talking a dirt floor shack made of cardboard and scrap metal, with no running water or electricity, and lots of flies everywhere- see picture), I proceeded to ask her if she was happy living there. Her entire face lit up, and she exclaimed how much she enjoys her neighbors and being able to live with her family. Her optimism and zest surprised me, but it was so neat to see someone who is determined to make the most of life, despite the daily living challenges she faces. I spent a few more minutes conversing with the family. The grandmother even gave me a hug when I left! The whole interaction really inspired me and reconfirmed what it is about public health that I am so passionate about- the ability to establish human connections that can transcend language, social, and cultural barriers.

I am definitely feeling less like a tourist, and more like I belong here. I am excited to see what the upcoming weeks will bring, and I'll be sure to keep you posted!

Living, learning, and loving in the "Rainbow Nation"

Hello again from South Africa! I am still greatly enjoying life in the "rainbow nation," appropriately nicknamed for its colorful history and diverse political, cultural, social, and economic dynamics.

Here are some more of my insights, which I've tried to coincide with the title of this blog post:

Living:
It is hard to believe that I've already been here a week and a half. Where has the time gone?!??!? If I had to answer my own rhetorical question, then the time has mostly been spent exploring my new environment and getting to know more people. I've been really trying to take advantage of every opportunity that has come my way. So far, so good…

We had a long weekend over Easter, in which I was able to do some sightseeing. We (as in a group of friends from my program) started closer to home by taking a day to walk around the town of Stellenbosch, visit the Stellenbosch botanical gardens (which have just become my new study spot!), do some shopping, and enjoy each other's company. The next day, the group took Cape Town by storm with a full day of exploring, visiting the aquarium, seeing the stadium where the World Cup will be held, dining along the wharf, shopping, and meeting up with other Northwestern friends who are interning in Cape Town as part of their journalism studies. Cape Town is a beautiful city with a great cultural vibe. We were also able to enjoy the city at night, with a dinner at this wonderful restaurant that served traditional African dishes. My new goal is to get my hands on those recipes and learn to make them myself!

Later in our long weekend, we spent a day at a nearby vineyard and conservation center to get up close and personal with cheetahs and other wild animals. A few of us went on a walk around the property to take in the majesty of the South African countryside, which is absolutely breathtaking! We finished the weekend with some wine tasting. All in all, a great introduction to our new home!

Learning:
It was back to reality at 7 am this morning on my first day of class. Although, I really shouldn't complain, because what a great first day it was! We went to the "Sustainability Institute," a community of forty-five households designed to be economically self-sufficient, environmentally friendly, and socially diverse. This community is one-of-a-kind, especially considering South Africa's tumultuous social history of colonialism and apartheid (the community is comprised of people of a variety of races, professions, and economic backgrounds). At the Institute, we had multiple hours of lecture about the project, its current challenges and successes, future goals, and how this type of mixed living environment is a milestone for South Africa. The lecture raised many important public health topics that we will continue to grapple with over the next few months. It was a great lens in which we can begin to explore the tip of the iceberg of much larger social, economic, and cultural challenges.

Later in the afternoon, we were able to directly engage with community members and ask them what their lives are like, living in this unique place. I was able to speak to a woman named Rosalind. We covered everything from her transition from a victimized life in the township to becoming a proud homeowner within this community (and thus fulfilling her life dream of owning a house "that has an upstairs"). We also discussed her work as an elementary school teacher at the local school, her daily life in the community, and her impressions of the advances her country has made over the last decade. Rosalind is a very genuine, compassionate, and optimistic person; she holds great hope for the future of her country, even when she was quick to identify the many social problems that it currently faces. It was an honor to be able to learn from her.

Loving:
Every experience and opportunity I have had causes me to fall more in love with this country. In the short time that I have been here, I am constantly amazed by the friendliness of its people, the beauty of the land, and the incredible optimism that people generally have to overcome the plethora of their daily social, economic, and political challenges. South Africa is unlike any other place in the world, and it is such a privilege to be here!

More adventures to come. In the meantime, I'm wishing everyone the best!

Someone pinch me because I must be in a dream…

Ever since I stepped off the plane (after 20+ hours in the air), I have been living in a fantasy world! South Africa is nothing short of amazing: the landscape, weather, people, food, and adventures have been great!

Here are just some of my first impressions:

The group I am traveling with has been so much fun- we are all so happy to be here, and really trying to make the most of every experience. I can already tell that some of my future best friends are in the making.

I am also getting to know many other full-time Stellenbosch University students. We had our first "braai" (barbecue) last night where we were able to mingle with students from Mexico, Netherlands, Chile, Mozambique, and South Africa- to name a few. It is so neat to hear where people are from, and what has brought them to Stellenbosch. Everyone is so friendly and interested in getting to know us. Lucky for me, Cornelius and Tracy, two of the people from South Africa that I met live right down the hall from me. I have a feeling that we will be seeing a lot more of each other!

We've also been in the midst of academic orientation. Classes start next week, but we've been able to meet our professors and learn a little more about what to expect academically. I will be taking a culture/language class that seems very promising- we will primarily be focusing on Afrikaans culture, food, language, and art forms. I am also taking a political history of South Africa class that covers everything from pre and post apartheid legacies, political institutions, socio-economic issues, and gender studies. My two public health classes also seem really exciting. One is a mixture of classroom instruction and excursions to a wide variety of public health clinics and related health care institutions throughout the country. The other is working at a local clinic in one of the many surrounding townships. I still don't know where I will be placed, but I find out soon!

This afternoon, we took a tour of the community of Stellenbosch. From playing a game of pick-up soccer (and making funny faces) with local children in the nearby township Kayamandi, to getting lost in the forest on our way to the braai, I'd say that I got a pretty good glimpse into my new home for the next three months!

One thing that has really struck me is the difference between the "haves" and the "have nots." At one point on our tour, we drove past a beautiful gated community. Literally five feet from the gate was a township of broken shacks, clotheslines, and extreme poverty. This is one thing to read about it in a school textbook, and an entirely different thing to witness firsthand; the experience really struck a chord in me. Since we'll be working primarily in the townships, I am very interested in learning how these socio-economic and racial divides manifest themselves in common, everyday South Africans. More to come on the topic…

In other news, the weather has been phenomenal (80 and sunny every day), housing accommodations livable (minus the daily battle I am having with some insects that want to take up permanent residence in my room), and food amazing (who can beat fresh mango juice, grilled chicken, and red wine straight from the nearby vineyard?). I can definitely get used to this…

I'm off to Cape Town for the first time tonight. Then we are heading into a long weekend, so stay tuned for more adventures. In the meantime, I am sending you all my love from across the ocean!