Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Hello, my name is Lufuno


Upon my arrival in the rural village of Domomboni, a tiny farming village on the border of South Africa and Zimbabwe, to live with a family for the weekend, I was promptly renamed "Lufuno," the Venda word for "love."

The title was fitting, considering these people have the biggest hearts, greatest smiles, and most welcoming personalities I have ever encountered. I was immediately embraced by the family, their neighbors, and anyone whom I met during my weekend there. People couldn't get enough of the "white thing" that had come to stay with them: children clamored to hold my hands or sit on my lap, adults came from everywhere to introduce themselves, and I was met with smiles and waves wherever I went.

My time in Domomboni was incredible: I ate a worm for the first time (a delicacy that I might have enjoyed more had I not known I was eating an insect), chopped wood with the men of the family, took a tour of town on a rickety old donkey cart, learned to make "pap" with the women (a staple food item that resembles grits), balanced a water jug on my head after fetching it from the central water pump with the children, given a beautiful "muksasi" (skirt) to wear, went to a church ceremony (where I was welcomed on stage in front of the entire congregation!), visited the secondary school and public health clinic, and learned a traditional dance. I even got to witness a young woman's coming of age ceremony and consult a traditional healer, or "shangoma."

Needless to say, the weekend flew by, as we crossed cultural and language barriers to come to a better understanding and appreciation of our vastly different worlds. It was amazing to learn how their society works, the problems it faces (HIV, teenage pregnancy, illiteracy, the fading power of the traditional ways, and unemployment being the foremost concerns) and the challenges it is working on overcoming. The importance of building a close family and a strong community were paramount in Domomboni; it is this sense of belonging that allows many to face the ups and downs that life brings.

In short, I don't think I have ever laughed, smiled, or danced as much as I did; the entire experience was an amazing gift- one that I will cherish forever.

Before my time in Domomboni, I went on a safari in Kruger National Park, the largest game reserve in the world. It is in the far NE corner of the country, next to Zimbabwe and Mozambique. This, too, was an amazing adventure- we drove in open game vehicles for most of the time, viewing animals right and left. Watching elephants, giraffes, zebras, kudu (elk-looking animals), impala (deer), wildebeest, rhinos, hippos, and baboons cross the road was an hourly occurrence. On a night drive, we even saw a pack of hyenas taking a nap in the middle of the road! Lion and other large predators are very prevalent in the area, but were elusive and only seen sporadically.

Our week in Kruger was enhanced by our tour guide, Dr. David Bunn, the leading expert on all things environmental, political, and cultural relating to the park. Dr. Bunn and his team explained everything from the consequences of elephant poaching to the problems surrounding illegal migration of Zimbabwean refugees through the lion territories of Kruger. These topics prompted fascinating debates and conversations around the campfire, as the moon and the milky way sparkled above us.

In addition, we enjoyed a few hikes along riverbeds, an evening braai in the bush (where armed game rangers with giant rifles stood guard to make sure hungry animals didn't join us around the dinner table), and a sunset champagne toast on the middle of a tall bridge!

My week away was a great opportunity to see other parts of the country, try new experiences, and step out of my comfort zone (let me just say that I have a renewed appreciation for running water and electricity!). In a few short hours, I'll be heading off to a week in the tiny seaside village of Knysna for some public health work. More updates to come!

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